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These chefs who embody sustainable gastronomy

Fontevraud (49) Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, invited several chefs holding the green star symbol of their involvement in sustainable gastronomy, to start a conversation on this transition at the Abbaye de Fontevraud. Inspirational testimonials.

Alexandre Couillon – The Navy L’Herbaudire (85)

“We live to the rhythm of Nature, which alone dictates to us, day after day, what will appear on the menu of our restaurant. We work with small local fishermen and try as much as possible to use only products from our garden. 10 years ago, when we created our garden, we were told: “you are going to steal the work of the producers”. Actually, no, because the growers didn’t want to produce the vegetables we wanted. One rule: in the evening, all the fridges are empty. We cook every day.

We accompany our customers who wish to shout or to the garden. Traceability and candor are essential. All organic waste is recycled into compost, before returning to the Earth.

It is important for us to talk about our future projects with our collaborators such as, for example, our new bakery-pastry shop for which we will also grow wheat. They are given responsibilities. They have the key to the garden and the lab if they want to experiment. We talk about the future and life projects. We have to think about the ecological transition and the transmission to young people of what we started.

Guillaume Foucault – Restaurant of the new Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire (41).

“We carry out work to raise awareness of the agricultural world on a large scale, in order to combine local culture and environmental imperatives: whether it is a matter of substantive work with breeders to revive the Percheron cow or with winegrowers to promote pear , our goal is to use the richness and history of our regions to unite all the local players around common projects. We federate, we motivate, we give life to rurality by thinking of the common good. For each action, I think how it will continue without me”.

Thibaut Spiwack – Anona Paris

“At Anona, nothing goes raw in the trash. The finery tray in the fridge is used to make juices. We even manage to reuse what we have used by making shellfish juice flour. Offering responsible cuisine is our raison d’être: sourcing regional and seasonal products, reducing waste and water consumption, supplying renewable energy, our commitment is total. Our furniture is also the fruit of the work of Ile-de-France artisans and our crockery is made from natural materials. Everything is local. 80% of our recruitment is done thanks to the green star. Young people speak to them.

We are attentive to the well-being of our teams. Going to the producers and visiting the vines allows you to be aware of the work behind the product and to respect it. I’m listening. We vote on everything. We all have to agree on what we serve to customers”

Loc VilleminToya Faulquemont (57)

“Since my childhood, I have been aware of ecology. In fact, it is necessary to return to common sense like explaining the importance of working the product in its entirety. At Toya, I work so that my establishment reduces its impact on all fronts. We practice a zero waste, zero plastic and no sea fish, victims of overfishing approach. Avoid all forms of waste, to grow to be more creative! Our vegetables are grown in collaboration with a market gardener in a garden dedicated to the restaurant.”

Claire Valle – ONA Ars (33)

“I spent a year in Thailand where I adopted a 100% vegetable diet, became aware of the importance of ecological issues and the impact of what we eat on health. Back 7 years ago, I opened a restaurant thanks to crowdfunding, an ethical and solidarity bank and many volunteers. We work with seasonal, organic and local products. Our green terrace, open in the summer, has 140 varieties of edible plants used in our kitchen. Our energy is renewable, and we have a compost system.”

Thierry Schwartz – Thierry Schwartz – The Restaurant Obernai (67) –

“Since the restaurant opened 20 years ago, short circuits have been our priority. 95% of our products come from less than 50 km. We have created a support ecosystem for producers to make them known and relaunch productions such as goose foie gras so that the sector does not disappear. We contact our market gardeners and growers every day and we take their mature products. Our menu changes twice a week. A large majority of our producers work biodynamically. We transform waste with a “zero waste” objective.

The increase in the cost of raw materials? As everything comes from side, there is no extra cost! We do not order. We take what is available to make the menu. helps us manage our finances. »

Nicolas Conraux – The Butte Plouider Table (29)

“Our leftover bread goes to the brewer. We redistribute our compost to our market gardeners. Our abalone shells are used to create glasses. To work with the consciousness of nature is to be truly with myself. At La Butte, we have a permaculture vegetable garden, a bioclimatic greenhouse and beehives. We highlight our producers (fishermen, market gardeners, breeders) and our local craftsmen (plates made of reclaimed wood, linen and organic cotton uniforms) and we make our teams aware of eco-responsibility.

We are driven by each person’s personal development. We have instituted a ritual that lets you know how people are doing. We are going to create a yoga room that will serve customers and our employees.

Herv and Catherine Bourdon – The Petit Hotel du Grand Large Saint-Pierre-Quiberon (56)

“Sustainable gastronomy is plural. We are in our truth. If we extract the marrow from our terroir, we become unique and to the customers, we say “come for what we are”.

We started by taking an interest in plants along the coasts and inland to bring in plants. We rented land to grow our produce ourselves because we couldn’t afford to buy land or pay someone to do it. We had no choice so in addition to the service, we went to the field. This has taught us a lot and it’s a virtuous circle, because the more land you cultivate, the richer it becomes and the more you learn. The lands are different. Today we have 4 pitches. Our menu gives pride of place to seasonal products, from our vegetable gardens or from local producers. One of the pitfalls is the weather.

Fish whose species is threatened or endangered are removed from our menus and for those we cook, concerned about animal respect, we favor slaughtering according to the ikejime method.

We also see people differently. We want them to be good at their job. We close two and a half days a week and we are in goodwill. We have many requests for apprentices and internships, perhaps the green star has played in this direction”.

Thibaut Ruggeri – Fontevraud The Restaurant Fontevraud-L’Abbaye (49)

“The products we work with are all from the local soil or from the vegetable garden and the hives of the Royal Abbey. Our menu changes every moon, every 29 and a half days, to best respect the rhythm of the products. »

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